From Rome to Asia without flying – Saint Petersburg, a writer dream

I don’t know about yourself, but I often have the feeling that this thing that we call life is just a dream.

It’s an old, recurring theme in literature and in neuroscience today, as the way we perceive reality can be described as a “controlled hallucination”.

We don’t see things as they are, but as we are.

Which means that our mind is constantly creating a vision before our eyes.

A dream, literary.

Past, present and future flow in that same ephemeral river, as if they never existed.

“And so I ask myself: Where are your dreams? And I shake my head and mutter: How the years go by! And I ask myself again: What have you done with those years? Where have you buried your best moments? Have you really lived?”, ask Dostoevsky in the White Nights, a short story he wrote about an isolated, dreamer character living in Saint Petersburg.

A classic of his.

The answer seems to be captured in another quote of the same book:

“But how could you live and have no story to tell?”

We can’t, indeed, we need to make sense of that hallucination telling (writing) stories about ourselves, about others.

Especially when life seems to play the absurdity card for us.

Without doing so, we are going to fall in a bottomless, hellish pit, and we are simply going to die, miserably.

That seems an appropriate premise to make in talking about my Petersburg days.

There is probably no better city on earth for daydreaming and storytelling.

Quite often its beauty is so striking that it generates a kind of jealousy, though.

You would want to treasure it, like a rare and beautiful dream, indeed.

But that’s no the reason why we are here, and why we do what we do.

We do inflame that sparkling fantasy of ours through images, for example.

Above are some photos of the Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, erected on the same site where the emperor Alexander II was assassinated by members of the nihilist movement.

The “spilled blood” suffix refers indeed to his assassination.

Too bad the dome was under renovation works at that time, nonetheless the facade retained its glorious magnificence.

“I am a dreamer. I know so little of real life that I just can’t help re-living such moments as these in my dreams,” says again Dostoevsky in the White Nights, a book that marked my adolescence deeply.

As an idealistic, hyper sensitive, impressionable, teenager I could identify and empathize with Dostoevsky’s protagonist, with his inadequacy, his loneliness.

One of the many things that scares me about the present world, is the fact that today, young people don’t seem to have any interest in reading great literature.

They are easily addicted to social media scrolling, consuming contents that don’t nurture their mind, their souls.

That has a huge impact on their cognitive abilities, but also on their feelings.

I believe that a particularly sensitive guy finds no comfort in scrolling through pictures and videos on Instagram, YouTube or even worse, TikTok.

Honestly, I have no idea how young people can cope with life today, but I am pretty sure that my adolescence would have been darker, marked by anxiety and a sense of being constantly inadequate, without books.

You may have realized by now that I have a hard time talking about my Petersburg days through a linear narrative, but that’s because I really experienced it all as a dream.

Time windows open one into the other.

So, I’d rather let the pictures do the talking here:

St. Petersburg is the city of canals, more than 60, of one of the world’s richest museums, the Hermitage, which features a painting by Leonardo da Vinci, one of the earliest works of the High Renaissance, Madonna Litta, of Petrine Baroque by Domenico Trezzani and Giovanni Fontana among others.

It’s also the city where the greatest writer of all time, Fëdor Michajlovič Dostoevskij, lived most of his life and set most of his fiction works.

The F. M. Dostoyevsky Literary Memorial Museum located on Kuznechny Lane 5/2 

I had the privilege to visit the apartment on Kuznechny Lane 5/2 where Dostoevskij lived twice during his life, first for a short period in 1846 in the beginnings of his career, and later from October 1878, when he wrote The Brothers Karamazov, until his death in January 1881.

Mine was thus a pilgrimage to the city where the writer who most marked my personal and intellectual path, is still buried.

From Mskovskiy Prospekt, I took the Metro 4, the orange line, to reach Alexander Nevsky Square, where the Tikhvin Cemetery is located.

Walking in that sacred place was without doubt one of the highlight of my journey to Asia.

One of the milestone of my entire life, I would dare to say.

Finding the grave wasn’t hard, as the cemetery is a tiny one.

The grave of Fyodor Dostoevsky and his wife Anna

I cannot hide the fact that I was particularly moved at that moment.

And I would certainly fail in trying to describe my feelings and thoughts, how surreal the whole thing appeared to me.

I cannot reveal my private conversation with him, either, with whoever was listening in the universe at that particular moment.

I want to close this article with the gold paint epitaph transcribed on the grave, including Dostoyevsky’s favorite Gospel verse: 

Verily, verily, I say unto you, Except a corn of wheat fall into the ground and die, it abideth alone: but if it die, it bringeth forth much fruit (Jn. 12:24).

From Rome to Asia, without Flying – Tallinn, a city on the edge of the future

The next morning, I got on a bus to Tallinn, Estonia.

It was going to be a 4h30min trip.

A pleasant one this time.

I was travelling with a young girl that I had met at the bus station, with whom I had started an interesting conversation.

Her name was Viola.

She was French.

I was shocked to hear that she was just eighteen.

I remember thinking that at her age, I was struggling in high school, arguing every day with teachers that I considered too prude, dreaming about being a great writer one day.

It wasn’t on my horizon to embark myself on a solo trip around Europe.

I was convinced that my interest should have been addressed towards books, nothing else.

The world scared me, that was the truth.

That’s the reason why I admired Viola, her authentic curiosity but above all her imaginative ambition.

It was already clear in her mind that her path would never have crossed a university classroom.

She didn’t know what to do yet, but she was confident she didn’t want to be a student anymore.

“I like drawing”, she showed me a notebook with some amazing sketches she had made during her trip.

Visages, urban streetscapes, natural landscapes.

I was truly moved.

There’s nothing that makes me more excited than recognizing real talent in people.

“Whatever you choose to do, don’t waste it, Viola”, I told her.

“My parents don’t agree”, she smiled gently.

“About what?”, I asked.

“About being an artist. They are very bourgeois.”

I was not expecting that level of social awareness, especially coming from a young person like her.

But French are French, for a reason.

Pardon my tautological statement.

“You seem very independent, though …”, I had been very careful not to share my reflection on the bourgeois money that probably allowed her to travel at so young age.

One should not have this kind of expectations from an 18-year-old.

“I am, I don’t listen to them. I do, what I like to do at the end.”

After all, if you want to be a true artist, you don’t have to give a damn about moralism or money.

Let conformists care about that.

“So, keep doing it, don’t waste time in being responsible for other’s opinion. Even if they are your parents,” I was trying to “save” her from my past mistakes.

I always considered myself to be too self-conscious to become a true artist.

“No one has ever told me something like that.”

“I can relate to you. I like to write.”

“Oh, that’s interesting. What do you write?”

“Fiction.”

“Have you ever published anything?”

“Nothing, so far.”

“That’s ok, writers don’t have a biological clock, right?”

We both laughed.

We got to Tallinn at about 4pm.

It had not seemed appropriate to do anything else than say goodbye to her at that point.

No hugging, no phone numbers exchange.

“Have a great life Viola”, this is what I said to her.

I then walked to my flat, that was located in the Kaarli Church area, on the edge of the old town.

A very pretty, smiling girl welcomed me for the check in.

She showed me the small but lovely studio, with a fascinating view of the onion domes of the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.

I decided to have a quick nap, but I soon realized that I was too excited to sleep.

I showered and got out with the intention to do a first exploration of the old town.

The daylight was particularly intense.

I felt good, energized, like I hadn’t felt in a long time.

The separation with the past was widening, geographically and in some sense spiritually, with each day passing.

I entered the southern gate of the old city, reaching Harju Street park, next to St. Nicholas’ Church.

I stopped to Caffeine EE for a soy cappuccino.

I then profited off one of the comfortable lounger chairs that are found in the park for sunbathing.

Despite the present issues due to its proximity to Russia, Tallinn continues to be a hotspot for technology nowadays.

It is one of the European cities with the highest number of startups in the tech industry.

With all the tech giants (Google, Amazon, Apple, etc.) operating in the Estonian capital, Tallinn is leading the smart city revolution.

What it really means to be a “smart city” though?

Today, 85% of Estonia’s population is connected to broadband, 100% of medical prescriptions are provided online, and 30% of citizens vote electronically. 98% of citizens have the digital identity card, which comes with a PIN code and is key to many transactions from bank to retail and transport.
Both the entire nation and the capital city are working to provide efficient, convenient digital services for citizens, visitors, and businesses. This includes common infrastructure for data exchange, the integration of the national e-ID system into authentication mechanisms, and innovations in other areas such as transport – which has been free in Tallinn since 2013 (for residents). The city’s goal for urban mobility is that everyone should be able to reach important places in 15 minutes through public or active transportation.
For Tallinn, being smart means providing good digital services through effective IT solutions. However, for these technologies to work, citizens must be willing and able to use them. Therefore, the definition term “smart” also includes the usefulness for the public. Tallinn is a very digital city with lots of free Wi-Fi, e-services, and open data. In recent years, with this infrastructure up and running, the Estonian capital has focused on involving people more in the planning process to make it smarter and more inclusive. [1]

Back in 2019, with the digital revolution at its peak, I didn’t have any clue of a city which had already embodied a so advanced concept of modernity.

To my shame, I have to admit that I wasn’t interested in such dynamics back in those days.

Let me open a small digression, at this point.

Writing about this journey not only allows me to revive something unique, a memory that would be regrettably lost.

But it gives me the incredible opportunity to rework that same memory, incorporating it with present information, creatively, reprocessing it into a totally innovative framework.

At that time, my only intent was to relish the beauty that came before my eyes.

That is what I would do that evening, enjoying a Chicken Korma in Town Hall Square, and then walking around in the areas of Viru Gate, St. Peter and Paul’s Cathedral, Vene Street.

And in the following day, crossing those same alleyways on a lovely May morning.

Admiring all the charm of the old town from the Toompea Hill.

Where I would later witness a spectacular sunset, with an intense, magical northern light that lingered over the Baltic Sea.

One of those moments that will stay distinctively in my memory as unique, special.

The very next day, I would decide to swing over to the other side of the Gulf of Finland.

I will talk about it in the next chapter of this series.

From Rome to Asia without flying – Riga, a city of a thousand fascinations

I arrived at the Riga bus station at lunchtime, under a dark grey sky.

I was still recovering from my hangover.

The entire trip had been terrible.

I decided to walk to my flat, that was about 20 minutes away from the station.

Before reaching what was actually a room in Gogoļa iela 7, nearby Riga central market, I stopped for a soup and a sandwich.

I had a code provided by the owner to enter the building, an old three-story with a rather decaying facade.

The interior was even worse in some ways.

A sad wooden staircase and electric wires hanging horribly from the ceiling.

I suddenly felt the full burden of a dramatic historical heritage.

I went up to the third floor using one of those ancient scenic elevators that gives you chills along the spine.

I had to use another code to retrieve a key from the safety box hung by the door.

There seemed to be no one inside the flat.

I could hear the dull sound of the street coming from an open window somewhere in the apartment.

I crossed the dark hallway, turned left, on a very tight corner, then again to the right where there were two doors, one in front of the other.

My room was the one on the right, the number 11.

I went inside, without needing to use the key.

The curtains were wide open, a subtle afternoon light illuminating the bed, a metal nightstand with a glass base, a sort of open closet with a set of crutches, and a lamp hanging in a corner.

To my relief, I noticed the minuscule but completely private bathroom.

I dropped my heavy backpack, then promptly tested the mattress’ comfort.

Not that great.

But I was exhausted, so I slept for a few hours regardless.

When I woke up, it was already dark outside.

I heard a rattling of dishes coming from the kitchen.

Then feminine whispers.

When I left the room, there was no one there.

It had started to drizzle outside.

I slipped on my raincoat and began walking in the direction of the old town.

I couldn’t go far, as the rain got quite heavy.

I found refuge in a Starbucks, where I got a Caramel Macchiato, and I waited for the rain to stop.

I then decided to cut an old friend off once and forever.

The same guy that didn’t bother to reply to my text the night before.

I removed him from my Instagram, blocked his account on Facebook.

I was strangely relieved by my actions.

It kept raining heavily.

I was hungry.

I considered the McDonald’s around the corner as the best option I had at that point.

I gave in to the American capitalism once again, then I went back to my room.

I couldn’t sleep, though.

Something bothered me, but I couldn’t put my finger on it.

I certainly didn’t figure that night all the problems I had been facing for a while.

It took me quite a long time for that.

I was woken up by the sunlight cutting through the pale curtains.

I showered, got dressed, grabbed my camera and got out of the room.

Once again, I didn’t encounter anyone in the flat.

The sun was finally shining outside.

I decided to walk to the central market to grab some breakfast.

Located on the edge of the Daugava river, Riga’s Central Market is Europe’s largest market.

It has a unique structure, with its five WWI Zeppelin aircraft hangars where all the stalls are neatly separated, selling meat, fish, vegetable and dairy.

As already happened in many other cities around the world, with the rise of supermarkets, the central market has become not only the sole source of affordable local goods but a cultural landmark of the city.

One of the few places where you can actually catch a glimpse of a city’s soul.

That morning I was attracted by a bakery in a corner of the fish and vegetables hangar.

A blonde, smiling girl, with curly air, was selling giant bread rolls.

“What is this?”, I asked her, pointing to a pile of doughnuts.

“Uzbekistani Non Bread”, she replied promptly, to continue: “You should try them out, they are delicious”.

I wasted no time, I sat at the counter and I ordered a round flatbread topped with sesame seeds.

“Can I also have an Espresso?”, I had already noticed the coffee machine behind her.

“Certo!”, she shouted in Italian.

I had probably appeared quite surprised to her at that point.

“Ho vissuto in Italia per qualche anno, prima di venire qui a Riga.”

Her Italian was flawless.

“Sei di qui?”

“Sono russa.”

“E cosa ci fai qua?”

“Quello che vedi”, she was placing the small cup of Espresso on the counter.

“In italia non è andata bene?”, I was wondering how it was possible to favor a place like Riga over Italy, at least in terms of work opportunities.

“Facevo la bandante, non ho trovato altro purtroppo”.

“Perché Riga?”

“È stato solo un caso alla fine …”

She kept serving her customers with a big, contagious smile.

“Amo l’Italia e la sua cultura. Mi piacerebbe tornare un giorno”, she finally added.

How many people had chosen Italy, but like her, didn’t find any fortune there?

I felt disappointed by my country.

A short line of people had been forming, waiting to be served.

The doughnut was truly delicious.

“In bocca al lupo!”, she shouted while I was leaving.

To my shame, I then realized that I haden’t even bothered to ask her name.

I spent all morning walking around the Vecrīga (old town), losing myself in pure wonder.

I climbed the astounding bell tower of the St. Peter’s Church, admiring the colourful and extravagant architecture of the old town all at once.

I got struck by the stunning facade of the House of the Black Heads.

I didn’t fail to marvel other beautiful landmarks, like the Riga Cathedral or the Three Brothers.

After having lunch in a nice café around Dome Square, with my energy level dropping significantly, I decided to head to the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia that was located nearby.

It was totally worth a shot.

It’s a very well organized exhibition of the tragic history of those occupations.

Latvia is one of those few countries of the eastern block which has the unique distinction of having been occupied by both Nazis and Soviets.

It is not hard to imagine that this is a historical peculiarity that no one would want to share.

All the Baltic countries, along with Poland, have suffered to an extent that is difficult to fathom.

You need to go to a museum like this to understand the motivations that still drive these countries nowadays to move as close as possible to the Western bloc, chasing away the ghosts of the past.

I couldn’t miss a visit to Alberta iela, the Art Nuveau street, where it is impossible not to get lost in admiration for the series of atypical, outstanding buildings designed by the architect Mikhail Eisenstein.

I then turned back in the direction of the old city.

Sitting on a bench inside the Bastejkalna Park had seemed like the best way to collect my thoughts of the lovely day that was passing by.

One of the most abused phrases on social media is the one attributed to Prince Myshkin in Dostoevsky’s novel The Idiot.

Beauty will save the world.

As much as it may seem a somewhat sugar-coated and ultimately banal phrase, there is something extraordinarily profound in it.

For instance, the fact that artistic and architectural beauty, can act as effective antidotes against cynicism and nihilism.

Furthermore, the beauty of rebirth after the tragedy is something that can literally spare us from the spiritual death.

As sunset approached on the Fountain Nymph with its beautiful crown of yellow roses, on the facade of the Latvian National Opera House in the background, I had the feeling that Riga had already left an indelible mark on my heart.

From Rome to Asia without flying – A bus to Vilnius, Lithuania

The day after, I was up pretty early.

I went to the Starbucks downstairs for a cappuccino and a scone.

The morning light coming through the window was pleasantly warm.

People wearing suits were leaving quickly with their takeout cups.

They were running to their offices to perform some kind of task they considered crucial in that particular moment.

That was their life.

It had been that way for me, too, for a long time.

But that day, my only goal was to catch a bus at 8:30 in the morning.

And I was feeling at peace with my purpose.

About an hour later, I was walking towards the bus station, which was less than a kilometer away.

It was somehow comforting, feeling all the gravity of my backpack on my shoulders.

I was ready to hit the road, again.

A seven hours ride to Vilnius, the Lithuanian capital.

The bus was a modern one, with all the comforts you would expect for a long trip.

Large seats, big screen, long legrooms, toilets.

On board, apart from myself, there was a woman carrying a large plastic bag with some clothes.

I took the chance to do some reading, listen to music and update my travel journal with the latest events.

I was also able to get some sleep, fortunately.

Finally, there was time to admire the landscape changing between birch forests and immense rapeseed fields.

We arrived at the Vilnius bus station around 5 pm.

The sunlight was still strong outside.

I managed to be scammed by a taxi driver that was waiting for idiots like myself.

15 euro for a 3km ride.

The hotel was within the old city walls.

My room overlooking one of the many alleys that lead to the Cathedral Square.

The view on the alley from the hotel entrance

I had a long, hot shower.

Then lied on the bed for a few minutes, closing my eyes, with the sole intent of enjoying the new acclimating phase.

I was out for sunset time.

I reached Savičiaus Gatvė, one of the most vibrant street in the old town.

Savičiaus Gatvė

I had some tapas and several glasses of red wine, before starting confusingly reflecting on my sentimental life.

It had been a disaster for quite a long time.

Was I still able to open my heart to someone?

I didn’t know what to think, what to feel, what to do anymore.

The alcohol was running wildly through the veins at that point.

I felt the need of a woman, but I was still too broken.

I texted an old friend of mine instead.

I have no idea if my words were nonsensical or somehow scary, but I didn’t get anything back from him.

We hadn’t been communicating for a while, though.

I suddenly turned to a dark mood.

I felt disappointed, sad, lonely.

I spent the rest of the night wondering around the old town, like a ghost.

All the people were looking light-hearted, cheerful.

I felt anger inside, and I didn’t know what to do with that.

I stopped on a bar in the Užupis area, with the aim of getting completely wasted.

I attained the goal with a pair of strong Old Fashioned.

I was suddenly miserable, again, feeling all the weight of the past on my neck.

This is not far enough.

That’s what I told to myself.

The sky was full of stars that night.

I was alone at my table, trying to remember the last time I felt truly happy.

I had no idea.

If I looked back, my life seemed nothing but a sequence of mistakes.

In my early days in Paris, during the Erasmus, I had met an Italian that was basically living in a hostel where I also spent a couple of weeks, before moving to a flat in Bastille.

The guy, I couldn’t remember his name, was one of the most depressed person I ever encountered.

In his filthy room, all he did was smoking joints, talking about how his life had been nothing but a giant mistake.

I remember thinking: where did it all go wrong for him?

Was there a particular event, a sudden death, a painful breakup, or was everything already there all along?

Is one trigger enough to unleash all the misery of life?

I didn’t have any answer.

It was all very confusing to me.

I just felt I couldn’t be in tune with all was happening around me.

I couldn’t take it anymore.

I walked back to my hotel, along with my ghosts.

Despite my state, I had a pretty good night of sleep.

I woke up around 10 am, with a rough hang over to manage and a bus that would be leaving shortly and that I could not miss.

From Rome to Asia without flying – Warsaw, a city of ghosts and resurrection

I opened the curtain from my apartment on the third floor.

The soft light of the early morning slid in gently, revealing a rather composed disorder within my room.

The view from the large window, was quite overwhelming.

Modern, tall, skyscrapers stood imperious and proud across the street.

The Palace of Culture and Science, anonymously confined to a corner.

A sign of times.

A large, dark, cloud was creeping over the horizon.

I felt a sense of uneasiness, for the first time, since I had left Rome.

After days of movement, fatigue and excitement, the inertia was finally kicking in.

What am I going to do now? I said to myself.

I had what you can call a high level plan, but I realized I hadn’t worked out the details yet.

Shower.

Don’t think too much about it.

Grab the camera, go out, and see.

That had soon to become my mantra.

Srodmiescie, that’s the area where the Central Business District of Warsaw was built.

A view of Warsaw business distric

A modern city rebirth on the ghosts of a profound destruction.

45 Sienna Street was less than a block away from my apartment.

The “Under the Sailboat” flat house has a majestic facade that dominates the whole area.

One of the very few building in the city centre that did not get entirely destroyed during the war.

Here, seven marionette soldier figures, whose helmets and uniforms are decorated with currency symbols, will tell you what war is all about.

That’s the Blu’s mural, his anti-war manifesto, that was painted by the Italian artist as part of the Updates Festival in 2010.

It has become one of the most popular piece of street art in the world, since then.

I am going to admit my ignorance, by revealing you that I had to find out about all of that on Google.

About 100m away, in 55 Sienna Street, lays another important block of city history.

Again, a tragic one.

The border of Warsaw Ghetto was marked by the wall between Sienna 53 and 55 estates.

Established in 1940, this was the largest Nazi ghettos during World War II. [1]

At its height, as many as 460,000 Jews were imprisoned there, in an area of 3.4 km2. [2]

A fragment of that same wall is still accessible from the side of a High School on 62 Zlota street.

I took the time to sit in front of that piece of ruin, and reflect on the enormity of the history encapsulated in it.

The jubilant yells of teens coming from the school reminded me that after all, there is nothing escaping the transience nature of this life.

Not even the greatest of sorrows.

That same day, I walked a few blocks to the Pałac Kultury i Nauki (The Palace of Culture and Science).

I then took an elevator to reach the observation deck located on the top terrace.

From there I had a pretty good view of the entire city extending across the Vistula River, under an enormous dark grey sky.

The city skyline from the PKIN observation deck

However, the chill northerly wind did not make that moment particularly pleasant.

I headed to the Old Town for lunch.

Nicolaus Copernicus Monument standing before the Staszic Palace

Totally destroyed during World War II, the entire district has been restored to the splendor of the origins.

A reconstruction effort that looks like a miracle of human resilience.

I sit in one of the many outdoors on Market Square, enjoying a timid but pleasant sun.

I had some fried Pierogi and a pint of Lager.

Then, I spent the afternoon wandering into the stunning alleys of the old city.

I was exhausted when I went back to my flat.

The sunset was fading out, creating an unexpected elegance around the totem of modernity.

I lied on the bed for a quick nap.

When I woke up, it was already dark outside.

With the stomach growling, the fastest option was to go downstairs to grab a kebab at the kiosk across the street.

Then, while having a meal that was anything but sophisticated, I sensed something inafferable and romantic.

Maybe it was about the city lights or the gentle noise of the night.

Or maybe it was something else.

Like a truth that was impossible to grasp.